The Cuillin from Elgol, Skye, ScotlandI'd been fortunate enough to get a calm evening at Elgol, which is far from guaranteed. The drive in is a proper commitment, miles of single track with passing places, the kind of road that tests your patience before rewarding it. But when you round that last bend and the Black Cuillin appears across the water, you understand why you came! Loch Scavaig was perfectly still. The entire ridge, all dark gabbro rock and jagged edges, doubled in the