Walrus, SvalbardSvalbard, about as far north as you can get without chartering something expensive. This walrus was hauled out on a rocky shoreline, completely unbothered by my presence. The tusks are massive up close, yellowed ivory against that extraordinary hide, which looks like it's been carved from old leather. Every fold and crease tells you something about the life this animal has lived in freezing water. The light was flat and cool, diffused through heavy