Dýrholaey, IcelandI've been to Reynisfjara a handful of times now, and each visit the conditions have been completely different. This particular day was grey and still, the sea barely moving, which is unusual for a beach that can throw sneaker waves at you without warning. The black sand runs in a long diagonal toward Drholaey, that broad flat promontory sitting solidly on the horizon. No wind, no sun, heavy cloud pressing down. The kind of day where you wonder why you